Assembly Instructions: Kits #1-4

Difficulty level: 1 (the simplest, no
soldering iron required)
Parts included in these kits: Kit #1, Kit #2, Kit #3, Kit #4
If you want to purchase one of these
inexpensive and simplest kits, click here.
If you want to understand how it works, click here.
Read all instructions carefully and check
the Safety Rules before you start!
Instructions
- Insert the T-pin into one of the
caps.

- Insert the rotor core into the same
cap as shown below. Apply some pressure to push the rotor core approximately
1/2" (10-12mm) into the cap.

- Put in the wooden insert.

- Insert the pushpin into the other
cap.

- Put everything together as shown
below. Push the caps towards each other until they cannot move any more. The
T-pin must be secured firmly. This process may require some strength. Be
careful not to bend the T-pin or poke yourself.

- Glue the magnets to the flat
surfaces of the rotor core with the letter ‘S’ facing outside. If you
purchased the kit with 4 magnets and want to try 2 magnets first, glue them to
the opposite sides. Straighten the T-pin if necessary. You can check it by
spinning the rotor between your thumb and index finger. Again, be very
careful.
All kits have magnets with the South pole marked. If you want this side to
look better you may cut out the white glossy round labels that are provided
and paste them to the marked sides. You may do it before attaching the magnets
to the rotor. It is recommended to use regular white glue or a glue stick on
the labels for better results.

- Insert the rotor into the stands
marked with blue and silver stars as shown below. Hold the stands and test to
see if rotor spins freely. Make final adjustments to the T-pin if necessary.

- Glue the stand with the silver star
to the board. Try to cover the corresponding star completely. Align the marks
on the stand with the line on the board as shown below. Note that the star's
position and the marks are approximate, sometimes you need to move the stands
slightly to achieve the lowest friction. Keep in mind that super glue bonds
instantly, so try to be as accurate as possible in these procedures.

- Insert the rotor into the stand
marked with the blue star. Glue it to the board the same way as the first
stand. Leave a gap of about 1/16" (1/32", or 0.8mm on each side)
between the rotor and the stands. Test again to see if the rotor spins freely.
At this time, or later, you may take the rubber plug and fix it as shown
below. You can glue different things to the outer flat surface of the plug.
Try to be accurate, redo this step if necessary.

- If you purchased the
experimentation kit #2 or #3, instead of steps 10-12 for this
kit, follow these instructions. After that,
please, come back to this page and continue the assembly instructions from
step 13.
Otherwise, insert the nail into the stand with the green star. Apply
glue as shown below.

- Cut two pieces of wire 9"
(22-23cm) long. They will be used for connecting the reed switch. Use the rest
of the spool of wire to wrap around the area between the tape and the head of
the nail. Try to be as accurate as possible. Tape the end and beginning of the
wire using the same tape and leaving open ends of wire about 6" (15cm)
long*. Do not let the wire slide off the end of the electromagnet. Clean about
1" (2-3cm) of the wire tips with fine sandpaper (included) or a sharp
knife to remove the insulation.
* If your kit does not include a battery holder leave the
ends 10" (25cm) long. In that case you should make the two pieces of wire
mentioned earlier 12" (30cm) long.

- Glue the electromagnet to the
board as shown below. Turn the rotor slowly to see if the magnets hit the
electromagnet. If one or more do, move the electromagnet back until there is a
1/16" (1.5mm) gap between the electromagnet and the closest magnet on the
rotor.

- If you are assembling the Kit #8
please do steps 13-16 from Assembly Instructions: Reed
Switch Motor With Transistor instead. After that please come back to
this page and continue from step 17. For kits #1-4 follow these instructions:
Attach the green self-sticking felt pad to the reed switch stand as shown.
This soft pad decreases the reed switch vibration thus decreasing the sound it
generates.
- Take the two pieces of wire you
cut earlier in step 11 and clean the wire tips to remove the insulation. Clean
about 1 1/2" (4cm) on one end and 1/2" (12mm) on the other end of
each wire piece. If you want to use ZNR go to step 15, otherwise wind longer
bare ends tightly around outside contacts of the reed switch as shown in the first diagram. Insert the reed switch wires into
its stand as shown in a second picture. Be careful not to break the reed
switch, it is very fragile. Twist the wires as shown below in diagram 3.


- If you want to experiment with higher
voltages (up to 15 Volts) or make much more reliable motor you may add a ZNR.
The ZNR is a small electronic part that absorbs the spark inside the reed
switch. The ZNR is not required for the motor to work. Skip this step if you
are not adding ZNR at this time.
Wind longer bare wire ends tightly around outside contacts of the
reed switch and the ZNR as shown in the first diagram. Insert the reed switch wires into
its stand as shown in a second picture. Be careful not to break the reed
switch, it is very fragile. Twist the wires as shown below in diagram 3.


- Glue the reed switch holder to the
base. It should be located at a distance of about 1/8" (3mm) from the
closest magnet covering the gold star on the board. Check the rotation of
the rotor to make sure that it does not hit the reed switch. IMPORTANT: The
most sensitive part of the reed switch is not in the middle of it, but more
to the side as shown below. You should hear a clicking sound when each
magnet passes by the reed switch, otherwise move the reed switch a little
closer to the magnets until all four can turn the reed switch on.

- If your set does not include a
battery holder, skip this step.
Attach the battery holder to the board. The battery holder allows you to
experiment with 4 different voltage settings (1.5, 3, 4.5, and 6V DC). You
will need 4 AA size batteries. The kit may contain 3 metallic inserts (they
look like medium size nails) or a jumper wire - short piece of wire with no
insulation on both ends.
- If your kit contains
inserts simply replace any battery for a metallic insert to lower the
voltage, and replace a metallic insert for a battery to increase the voltage.

-
To understand how the jumper wire
works let's take a look at the connections inside the battery holder:

The following diagram shows how to
get 1.5, 3, 4.5, and 6 Volts using 1, 2, 3, or 4 batteries and a jumper wire shown in
blue color. Arrows show the current flow for 1.5, 3, and 4.5 Volts settings. Could you
trace the current when all 4 batteries are inserted (there is no jumper wire in
this case)?

Insert bare ends of the jumper
wire between the spring and plastic case to make a good contact and hold them in
place. This is how the jumper wire is
actually used for 1.5 Volts experiments (one end is disconnected and may serve
as on/off switch):

Before connecting everything
together connect both wires from the electromagnet to the battery. If the
electromagnet doesn’t repel the permanent magnets away, switch the wires.
When it repels, disconnect one wire and connect it to the reed switch. Connect
the other end of the reed switch to the battery. The wiring diagram for kits
#3 and #4 is shown below:

Start with 1.5V. If the motor does not work, increase voltage to 3V. If it doesn’t help,
ensure that the rotor rotates freely and check all the connections – it is
important to clean the insulation thoroughly. Make sure the batteries are fresh
and connected properly. If the motor still does not work – click here for troubleshooting.
It is easy to change and control
the speed of this motor with only a few additional parts. Experimentation kits allow you to add a
speed control unit and conduct other experiments.
CONGRATULATIONS! You have finished assembling
this electric motor! Click here for
Experiments and Applications.